Villa Bianca B&B - Fregene Holiday Rentals

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Mary Ellen makes this a wonderful place to stay at any time of year - a stroll from bright beaches, a train hop from Rome. Who would not love to stay here, three blocks from beaches favoured by Romans, flanked by umbrella pines and immersed in peace? Mary Ellen is a warm gracious hostess, on hand for your questions and full of ideas for places to see; she is also a yoga teacher and has a room for courses. The villa was built in the 1970s, with jolly striped awnings and a front balustrade terrace, and steps spilling down to a dappled garden where palms and orange trees grow, source of your freshly squeezed juices.

Inside you are spoiled by space and have almost the run of the house: an airy central living room stuffed with sofas, a side sitting area with an upright piano. Bedrooms are traditional, comfortable and named after their colours: Sapphire, Emerald, Oriental, Rose. One is en suite, two have big balconies, and each bathroom comes with perfect mosaics. Find Roman ruins at Ostia Antica, castles by the hatful and Rome 15 minutes by train. Borrow the bikes and head off to the beach, for a glass of wine and a plate of spaghetti and clams.

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